Climbing in the Isle of Purbeck

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Dancing Ledge is part of the great Swanage expanse of limestone situated about 10 to15 minutes walk from Tom's field. See the UKCrags Swanage web site for a general description of the Swanage area. The best guide book is either the Climbers Club Swanage and Portland by Nigel Coe which has about everything but more suited to sport climbing is the smaller and cuter Dorset Rock Fax by Pete Oxley who has claimed some 400 climbs in the area. You may be interested to know that there are still quite a few routes still to be claimed particularly in the lower grades. They just need a bit of patience.   

St Aldhelm’s Head. Situated at the other end of the cliffs some 4.5 miles east of lighthouse. If you look like a local you can take your car via a rough road to the old Chapel close to the cliffs. The area is located below the coastguard lookout post. The climbing is well away from the sea and is of interesting quality. Stumble down a small dirty gully to a the climbs (west).

Swanage has a reputation of being a serious place to climb possibly because of the atmospheric effect of the crashing seas and expanse of white limestone with 100 ft abseils over gaping zawns. Well it's not all like that and even a beginner can climb safely. But be very mindful of high seas as freak waves have swept climbers away more than once! Another point to watch is that the rock can become very greasy when the wind is blowing in from the sea and can take you unawares at the end of a summer days climbing!

Winspit Quarry. Walk down from Worth Maltravers (approx. 1mile) to find loads of bouldering and some short bolted routes. A good place to go if the weather looks bad. The sea walls hold many short (20-25ft) S and VS climbs. The bolted climbs are easily seen from the paths and no abseiling is required. This seems to be a trendy place to be seen and it is very strange how every body is the best friend of Pete Oxley. Check out the caves and the small cove and mingle with the crowds.